Wednesday 14 February
Albury
I had a day to kill whilst waiting for news that the bike had been repaired and was ready for collection. Having exhausted Albury’s cultural offerings I walked to a retail park 4 miles from the hotel to buy a couple of items from Anaconda, an outdoor equipment and clothing store. These complexes are generally on the edge of towns hence the lengthy walk. After returning to the hotel with my wares I waited until 1600 before telephoning seeking information on the bike. I was assured that it was on the lift and would be ready by 1000 the following day. I ate a healthy stuffed chicken salad that evening in an atmosphere of some apprehension.
Thursday 15 February
Albury – Geelong
I vacated my room and left my luggage with reception before the 10 minutes walk to the dealership. On arrival just before 1000 I was delighted to discover that the mechanic had just left to test ride the bike. He returned soon afterwards and as is the custom at that dealership the bike was washed before being handed back to me. I was pleased that the bill was quite modest and I returned to the hotel, via a petrol station to refuel the bike, loaded my luggage and set off for Geelong and the ferry to Tasmania. Although I dislike motorways I rode the Hume Highway as far as Broadford where I left it to take minor roads to bypass Melbourne. I arrived at the ferry port at 1700 in good time for the 1845 departure to be met by 40 or 50 Harley Davisons.
They were all going to a weekend HOG Australia rally in Tasmania. I chatted to several of the riders before we all embarked and I made my way to the reclining seats lounge (no cabins were available when I booked). I ate an early dinner in the ferry restaurant (cafeteria style) and returned to my seat which was very comfortable, not only reclining but with an extending foot cushion to support the legs and with blanket and pillow supplied. I did manage some sleep interspersed with the odd wander around the ship.
401kms travelled.
Friday 16 February
Devonport – Launceston
The ferry started disembarking the bikes at 0545. The sound on the car deck as the enormous number of Harley Davisons, many with Screaming Eagle and other loud exhausts, started their engines was deafening.
I had read of a café in Devonport which opened at 0630 and reputedly served an amazing breakfast so I rode around for a short while in the dark and at 10C before making my way to it. The café had changed ownership, its name and no longer served breakfast!
Launceston, where I had booked 4 nights’ accommodation, was only about 120kms from Devonport so I decided to head south to the hills. I stopped in Sheffield for breakfast but was deterred from using the bakery (always a good bet for coffee and breakfast in Australia) as it had been overrun by aforementioned HD bikers. Instead I opted for a small café run by two elderly ladies where I enjoyed coffee and an egg and bacon roll. I decided to head for a small town called Deloraine and as I left Sheffield I spotted a sign to Cradle Mountain.
With time to spare I turned off and rode down a sinuous narrow road and on spotting directions for the Mersey Valley lookout (view point) I followed it to get a good view of Mount Roland.
I looked at a map and realised that this road also lead to Deloraine but would be a far more interesting and scenic ride. I returned to Sheffield to refuel and then backtracked to a delightful ride through the Mole Creek Karst National Park.
As I left the hills I saw signs to King Solomon’s Cave and then Marakoopa Cave. I investigated and determined to visit them both on the following Monday. Coincidentally my son in law Paul had emailed me a link to the caves a couple of days before. I stopped in Deloraine for lunch and then continued to my hotel in Launceston. On arrival I was dismayed to find that the on street parking was metered and time limited and the hotel staff were unable to offer any alternative. I was obliged to cancel the 4 nights’ booking and forfeited a night’s charge. (Update 10 days later - it appears no charge has been made - probably felt compassion for ancient Brit) I then found another hotel which was far better, had secure on site parking and for not a lot more. Following a good shave and shower, the first since the morning of the day before, I went to the hotel bar to take advantage of Happy Hour sampling the local (Boag) brew. After a couple of pints I cracked and went for a curry – it was Friday night after all!
231kms travelled.
Saturday 17 February
Launceston – Tamar Valley
Following a continental breakfast in the hotel I walked to the weekly farmers’ market. It is clearly very popular and in addition to the normal fruit and veg there were familiar offerings from bakers, cheese makers, olive growers, gin distillers etc, and Asian food stalls. I returned to the hotel, changed, and rode the western side of the Tamar Valley to Greens Beach on the shore of the Bass Strait beside the Tamar estuary.
The west side of the valley hosts a plethora of vineyards and olive groves. It was interesting riding through Exeter, Sidmouth and Beaconsfield. I have noticed that Tasmania has far more towns and villages with English, and to a degree European, names with very few indigenous names, unlike the mainland. Indeed, I passed through an area the day before with villages named ‘Paradise’ and ‘Promised Land’, the Bible belt? After Greens Beach I headed back via Beauty Point to cross the Tamar River on Batman Bridge to the east side where I headed north to Low Head, the other side of the estuary to Greens Beach.
I stopped for lunch in George Town and enjoyed an avocado salad (penance for the curry and rice). I had an interesting conversation with a middle aged Malaysian tourist and his girlfriend who lived in Perth. Hearing the story of his stressful working merry go round reminded me of how fortunate I am to be able to do things like this tour. He did express a degree of envy.
The east side of the valley was less cultivated than the west and appeared to contain chiefly woodland and cattle farms. I had a nice ride on quiet roads back to Launceston. I strolled into town and discovered the St John’s Craft Beer Bar where I enjoyed a couple of schooners of good, if rather expensive, beers. I was looking for somewhere to have a modest dinner but in the end had Singapore Noodles in a Chinese café two doors down from the pub.
193kms travelled.
Sunday 18 February
Launceston
I had a bit of a lie in as I had decided to explore Launceston. I walked into town, had a lovely eggs Benedict breakfast and walked to the City Park where I watched a troop of resident Japanese Macaque monkeys.
I then walked across the Tamar River bridge to the Queen Victoria Museum. It was really interesting and part of the premises occupies the old buildings of the Launceston Railway Workshops. The Blacksmith Shop, a vast covered space, which was built between 1909 and 1937, closed in 1994 and it looks as it must have done when the workers laid down their tools on the last day before going home.
Following coffee at an adjacent café I walked to the National Automobile Museum of Tasmania. The museum’s collection contains a homage to Australia’s muscle cars, ‘The Hall of Muscle’, of which there are still many street legal versions running, together with a number of interesting bikes. There was a one owner 1972 Honda CB750 “K2” which had never been ridden – it had 0.4kms on the clock. My favourite exhibit, though, was a1939 BSA Silver Star together with its incredible story of ownership.
The afternoon was wearing on so at around 1700 I returned to the Craft Beer Bar where, in the interests of rehydration, I was again tempted to drink beer. I had curry for dinner again (!) but determined to ration my intake of rice in the future.🤔🥴
Monday 19 February
Underground Day
I rode the 85kms to Marakoopa Caves where I bought tickets for tours of both that and King Solmon’s Cave. I had time to spare and rode to Mole Creek for coffee. Whilst there I got into conversation with two middle aged female Park Rangers, one of whom owned an old Moto Guzzi which she hadn’t ridden for 10 years apparently. I went to King Solomon’s Cave for the 1230 guided tour. My group of 17 waited and eventually the tour guides turned up at 1228 apologising for being late because they had business to attend to and were delayed. I resisted the temptation to remark that their business had been drinking coffee and eating cakes in the café! The cave was spectacular and the tour guide, Angela, a local woman raised on a farm nearby was very good. Her anecdotes and local knowledge made for a most interesting commentary.
I was booked into the 1400 tour at Marakoopa and reached there just in time having travelled the 5kms between the caves. The guide here was a knowledgeable young woman with an irritating habit of giggling between statements. This cave complex was not as spectacular but it had water running through the system and the first cavern was populated by glow worms on the ceiling best seen on the way out when eyes had adjusted fully to the gloom. No photography was permitted because of the fear of accidental use of flash which would drive the insects away. The effect was akin to looking at the clear sky at night.
On return to my hotel I enjoyed a Tasmanian salmon salad.
213kms travelled.
Tuesday 20 February
Launceston – Beaumaris
A relaxed start to the day following a breakfast of coconut milk yoghurt and fresh strawberries in my room (trying to make amends for falling off the rice wagon over the weekend). I rode to Scottsdale where I stopped for coffee and then on to St Helens on the east coast. A large proportion of the route was through wooded hills on a superb motorcycling road.
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