The Final Leg

 Monday 23 January

Kangaroo Island - Adelaide

I left at 0920 at 20C.  I had stacks of time before the 1330 ferry from Penneshaw.  I diverted to American River for coffee.  On arrival at the wharf I was greeted by an iconic Australian scene - black swans in the foreground, fur seals sleeping on the wharf and a pelican sitting on a pylon.  

I strolled around the wharf area and discovered that the town had an active dragon boat racing club; rather incongruous I thought in such a location.  On the wharf was a boat shed which housed the building of a replica of the 1803 American schooner ‘Independence’.  I arrived at the ferry terminal at 1230 and boarded following a light lunch. 

A very helpful and chatty crew member secured my bike and untied it immediately on arrival at Cape Jervis.  The temperature by this time was 21C.  The first 60kms towards Adelaide from Cape Jervis was through great hilly twisties and the temperature gradually increased.  

I stopped at Lady Beach just before Normanville to remove my thermal vest after which the road descended into McClaren Vale.  I was now riding through vineyards and olive farms.  As I had experienced when approaching Adelaide from the north the road became busier and more suburban about 40kms from the centre.  Nevertheless I made good time despite the traffic to reach my motel by 1600.  I had a takeaway pizza for supper.

202kms travelled.

Tuesday 24 January 

Adelaide

I dropped the bike off at 0845 for a service.  It was a 30 minutes walk back to the motel where I changed for a trip into the city centre.  Like many cities it is not possible to pay onboard buses and one has to purchase a card before travel.  The Adelaide metro website is absolutely pathetic and inaccurate.  It had details of two outlets near me where supposedly I could purchase a metro card.  Wrong!  I ended up walking a considerable distance where I came across the metro tram line and having spoken to a lady, who incidentally came from Northern Ireland, I discovered that I could use a credit card on the tram.  I rode to the main railway station where I purchased a card.  

I wandered around the city centre and returned to my motel by bus.  On boarding the bus I noticed that it was fitted with a device which would have enabled me to pay by credit card.  I discovered subsequently that not all buses are so fitted but that if I had boarded a bus without the requisite card the driver would have probably waived the fare.  I walked back to the motorcycle dealership to collect the bike and was very pleased with the service that had been undertaken (although a little sad that it had not been cleaned as is done in the shop in Albury).  I did some typing and then walked to a local Chinese Restaurant which had been recommended by the motel receptionist where I enjoyed a meal reminiscent of my time in Hong Kong.

Wednesday 25 January

Adelaide

I used the motel washing machine for laundry and then caught the bus into the city.  I visited the information centre and had a discussion about the dire Metro website.  The staff were in agreement and said that they were frustrated because they received numerous adverse comments which although passed on to the authorities appeared to be ignored.  I visited the South Australia and the Immigrant Museum both of which were very interesting.

I do enjoy touring these museums and selfishly prefer to be on my own so that I can linger over each explanatory notice.  I returned to my motel on the bus and later ate in a Malaysian restaurant.  Although there are many Asian migrants in Australia there appeared to be a greater concentration generally in Adelaide to my mind.  Of course in Sydney, for example, there is effectively a Chinatown, but I didn’t come across such a concentrated area in Adelaide although I did see a few eating outlets where the script was solely Oriental.

Thursday 26 January

Adelaide (Australia Day)

I had decided to remain in Adelaide for a further day as I considered it would be interesting to witness celebrations of Australia Day which together with Anzac Day is one of the most important days in the Australian calendar.  The day started early with indigenous Smoking Ceremonies and breakfast but too early for me to attend.  A smoking ceremony is an ancient aboriginal custom that involves burning various native plants to produce smoke, which is considered to have cleansing properties and the ability to ward off bad spirits from the people and the land and make a pathway for a brighter future.  I travelled by bus into the city centre at 1015 and walked around Rundle Mall before having brunch.  I walked on into Rundle Street which led me into an older less developed part of the city and where the architecture was more traditional and where there were numerous bars and restaurants.  

I visited the Botanical Gardens and toured the Museum of Economic Botany, far more interesting than the name suggests.

 

It was opened in 1881 and many of the exhibits remain exactly as they were at that time displaying a permanent collection exhibiting the practical, medicinal and economic use of plant materials.  It was inspired by the museum in London's Kew Gardens, which opened in 1847, and is the sole remaining museum of its kind in Australia.  Upon opening, the Museum of Economic Botany displayed 3500 objects specifically designed to show the link between the raw material and the final consumer product. It currently displays over 3000 specimens, representing 99% of collected material.

The Australia Day celebrations were due to start later in the afternoon so I strolled alongside the River Torrens which runs through the city stopping for afternoon food in a cafe close to Elder Park where the festivities were scheduled to take place. 

The celebrations were to start with the Respecting Country Parade, a cultural procession full of colour, music and dance that comprised a number of South Australian communities coming together to celebrate the diversity and richness of the state in the spirit of inclusion and respect.  In a first the Respecting Country Parade began with the cultural ceremony ‘A Greeting to Spirit of Place’, led by Karl Winda Telfer (Traditional Owner/Kaurna Meyunna) which brought together all parade communities to pay respect to country and honour the ancestors of this ancient land. 

 

The colourful line of people travelled along King William Street merging into Elder Park celebrating the diversity of communities and cultures in South Australia, highlighting both large and small community organisations, performers and charities that contribute to the state.

The parade started at 1800 and on arrival at Elder Park there were a number of speeches given by personalities including the premier of South Australia and a female indigenous elder who gave an inspiring speech on the theme of inclusivity.  There then followed a concert including choirs and an orchestra and band.  

In the park were a number of food and beverage and other retail outlets.  It was very busy with space on the grass to sit, particularly in front of the staging or in rare shade, at a premium.

A 10 minutes fireworks display on the river was scheduled for 2130 but having witnessed many such displays in my time I decided to beat the rush and head back to the motel.

Friday 27 January

Adelaide -  Naracoorte

I left at 0900 at 26C.  It was surprisingly quick to get out of Adelaide and into the Adelaide Hills.  There then followed an hour of sublime motorcycling, bend after bend, some hairpins (not quite like the Alps), lots of ups and downs and all with minimal wind.  Then vineyards and olive farms in the Langhorne Creek wine growing area.  I reached Wellington to catch the ferry across the Murray River but it was closed and I was diverted 20kms or so to another ferry at Tailem Bend.  

Interestingly, the township on the north side of the river, Jervois, appeared very run down when compared with that on the south side, Tailem Bend, which appeared quite prosperous, probably because of its location on the Duke’s Highway.  I rode through swathes of wetlands and swamps together with a large number of salt lakes adjoining Lakes Alexandrian and Albert.

After Meringie on the Prince’s Highway I rode alongside a long lagoon, The Coorong, part of the Coorong  National Park.

It was quite hot although riding beside the sea the temperature dropped to 31C.  I encountered considerable holiday traffic with vehicles towing caravans and boats.  I was heading for Robe on the coast and having discovered that accommodation was at a premium in passing I spotted a vacancy sign on a motel in Kingston SE.  I rode around town, found the pub and a likely place to eat and went back to book a room.  I was too late - the last room appeared to have been taken.  The check in procedure was automated and there was a phone on the counter to speak to reception.  I used it and spoke to a woman who explained that the vacancy was the result of a cancellation and had been taken only two minutes earlier.  She offered me a room at  Naracoorte, around 95kms inland.  It sounded good to get away from the tourists on the coast so I booked a standard room.  I enjoyed a good ride through the countryside on quiet roads and reached  Naracoorte in good time.  The motel, The William MacIntosh Motor Inn, was decorated in a Scottish theme and it had a restaurant, the Highlander.  Apparently William MacIntosh was an early settler in the area and became a substantial and important land owner which explained the Scottish influence there.  I was given a comfortable ‘executive’ room and enjoyed a very good steak in the restaurant although it was more expensive than planned as the Spanish waitress and I had a communication problem when ordering and apparently I inadvertently ordered the premium cut.

417kms travelled.

Saturday 28 January 

Naracoorte - Camperdown

I left at 0900 at 28C.  I rode through the Coonawarra wine region (I had enjoyed some of its products the night before).  There were extensive vineyards and it was strange to see such a large expanse on the largely very flat landscape (I normally associate vineyards with hilly areas).  There were a number of wineries the names of which I recognised and unlike any other wine growing areas I had travelled a number had roses growing alongside the vines as is common in Europe.

Roses are planted at the end of rows as an early warning system for the winegrower. They attract insects like aphids before the vines. They also get fungal disease like black rot and mildew before the vines do.  The area around Nangwarry was heavily forested

and by the time I had reached Mount Gambier the temperature had fallen to 22C and I donned my waterproof jacket.  Rolling downland led me to the coast at Nelson, where I had crossed the state border in Victoria, 

before which I saw signs to Portland and Dartmoor prompting me to wonder what country I was in.  I followed the coast via Portland to Port Fairy where I photographed the oldest pub in Victoria, The Caledonian Inn.  Sadly I didn’t stop for a pint.  

Passing through Warrnambool, a reasonably large town, I couldn’t help but notice the large speedway event taking place.  It was extremely well supported with thousands of cars parked in the fields surrounding the stadium.  At Peterborough I joined The Great Ocean Road, the reason I had selected that route.  Again, because of the accommodation situation I headed inland from Port Campbell to Camperdown where I had booked a motel room.  The road there was very entertaining with sweeping bends and hilly terrain.  The motel in Camperdown was very comfortable and outside each room was a bucket and squeegee to clean car windscreens (not much use for a motorcycle!).  I enjoyed a good meal in the Hampden Hotel.

415kms travelled.

Sunday 29 January

Camperdown - Geelong (via The Great Coast Road)

I left at 0900, for a change (!), at 17C.  It was raining and there was low cloud and mist.  I refuelled and rode the previous day’s route back to Port Campbell.  Sadly I was unable to enjoy it as much as it was wet.  The rain and low cloud persisted until just after 1400.  The Great Ocean Road is great for motorcycling, or would be if dry.  Consequently I was unable to fling the bike around the bends too aggressively.  I visited Loch Ard Gorge

and the Twelve Apostles, actually now seven: one of the eight collapsed in 2003.

There never were twelve; apparently there are a further four further west in the National Park which gave poetic licence to describe them as ‘The Twelve Apostles’.  Fortunately, although quite murky, it was clear enough for me to get a reasonable view before the clag returned.  I stopped a Lavers Hill for refreshment but because of a power outage which had lasted longer than publicised there were no hot drinks.  I was given a luke warm pie, gratis, though.  I was going to stop at Apollo Bay but it was heaving with holidaymakers, although I did refuel there, as was Lorne and Anglesey.   Before Anglesey at Fairhaven I spotted a most unusual house on the hillside.  Known as the ‘Pole House’ it is an internationally well known structure of architectural interest and apparently can be rented for £730 per night.

The weather was still pretty inclement

and I rode on via Torquay to Belmont, Geelong, where I found a reasonably priced motel.  My BMW waterproof gloves leaked after 2 or 3 hours and were sodden as were my previously waterproof boots.

So, I had travelled The Great Ocean Road although the promised spectacular vistas were hidden from view for much of the trip.

264kms travelled.

Monday 30 January 

Geelong - Bairnsdale

I left at 0820 at 20C.  I had booked passage on the 1000 ferry from Queenscliff to Sorrento which crosses the entrance to Port Phillip thereby avoiding trogging through Melbourne.  The ferry website instructed arrival 40 minutes before sailing and I had allowed good time to travel the 34kms to the terminal.  I arrived just before 9 and was offered a place on the 0900 ferry which I accepted.  Motorcycles are not tied down and riders are obliged to remain with their bike to ensure they remain upright.  

I had a long conversation with a Harley Davidson rider who showed me around his bike.  I admit to being impressed with its  technological and other features.  On disembarking at Sorrento I rode up the peninsula and was intrigued at the mile after mile of caravans parked on the Foreshore including a number of clearly permanent installations complete with integral sheds.  I headed west and then south towards Phillip Island and then down to Wonthaggi.  My plan had been to stick to the coast but I decided to head for Bairnsdale rather than my original objective of Sale in an effort to make my final day’s ride to Wagga Wagga a little shorter.  I headed north east via Leongatha, Mirboo North and Morwell to Taralgon. 

I bypassed Sale on the nice C106  before joining the Princes Highway to Bairnsdale.  I found a budget motel where I was soon joined by a host of Harley Davidsons and their longhaired, ponytailed, bearded, tattooed, mididle aged (merely descriptive, not judgemental) riders.  They were in Bairnsdale to attend a funeral the following day of a fellow biker who had died in his mid fifties from a brain tumour.  I had a lengthy chat with some of them and one said as we finished “I bet it’s been some time since you had a good chat with such bad guys.”   It had been a reasonable good day’s riding through some hills but also quite a lot of dual carriageway with traffic.  The temperature had remained in the low 20s but had remained dry.

401kms travelled.

Tuesday 31 January

Bairnsdale - Wagga Wagga 

I left at 0800 at 17C.  It was overcast, chilly but not windy.  I was soon in the hills and in my element.  250kms of steep hills and tight bends.  I rode the Great Alpine Road to Omeo, stopped for coffee (worst on my trip and half discarded) and a pie and fuel

and then rode the sublime Omeo Highway, the C543, towards Tallangatta.

 I stopped at Mitta Mitta where a couple of guys, one on a Ducati Panigale V4 and the other on an Aprilia RSV, arrived as I was drinking my coffee.  They were both from Sydney and were staying locally to ride the Snowy Mountain roads.  The guy on the Ducati had recently graduated from university and when I expressed my surprise that he was able to afford such a machine his chum explained that he had been a ‘privileged’ student, i.e. supported by the bank of dad and mum.  I turned off just after Eskdale heading for Wodonga following lovely valley bends before the final leg to Wagga.

Luckily the forecast rain didn’t appear and in its place I enjoyed a cloudless blue sky and sunshine.  I arrived in Wagga at 1635 to be greeted by my daughter and grandsons Jack and Euan.

  A wonderful final day of riding. 

13,593 miles/21,876 kilometres; 3 new rear tyres, 2 new front tyres; stem bearings and petrol pump/tank ‘O’ ring replaced; almost as much beer as petrol consumed.