Thursday 3 November
Daly Waters- Adelaide River
As has become the norm I left at 0830. Temperature of 31℃.
We rejoined the Stuart Highway and headed north. We stopped at the quirky Larrimah Hotel where notices promised homemade pies. I asked for a meat pie, a good breakfast with coffee I reasoned, and was served one straight from the oven. It contained large chunks of tender beef and was delicious. I spoke to the owner/cook who was ex-RAAF and who had met her husband whilst serving at the base in Wagga Wagga.
The Larrimah had a real outback feel to it with bric-a-brac scattered everywhere. Seems a dead cow, victim of road kill, some 60 kms away was a highlight and topic of conversation. Just before the hotel was a burned out semi trailer with three cars onboard. It had happened the previous week and it appears that one of the tyres caught fire which spread rapidly. Fortunately the driver was able to detach the remainder of the road train in good time to prevent the fire from spreading. We passed a German cyclist heading south who had begun his journey in Sydney - now that’s an adventure! The road on two thirds of today’s journey was flanked by large trees and shrubs which blocked any view of the terrain beyond, rather frustrating and quite claustrophobic. The final 100 kms saw more hilly countryside opening up views of distant land.
Katherine was an interesting town and got me thinking about the indigenous people and their presence. There is a large park in the centre of town in which there are a number of large trees under which several groups of aborigines were sitting on the ground in the shade. As is often the case we judge people by our own standards. In the case of the Australian indigenous people it is their habit to sit on the ground under the shade of a large tree and socialise. The impression is that is all they do, all day long. I can imagine that this is part of their culture, a throwback to centuries of nomadic roaming. Jun had considered visiting Darwin but decided to stick to his original plan and headed west from Katherine.
It was quite relaxing being alone again but I missed his headlight in my mirrors after six days of it being there. The budget accommodation in the Adelaide River Inn was pretty good for $80, ensuite, fridge, air conditioning, tv. Not exactly 5* but more than adequate. I took advantage of happy hour and enjoyed a good waldorf salad. The Inn is famous for having the buffalo that Crocodile Dundee hypnotised in the film of that name mounted on the bar; it is stuffed of course having died of natural causes.
473 kms travelled.
Friday 4 November
Adelaide River - Darwin
There was an amazing thunderstorm overnight which lasted for in excess of 4 hours from 2300 to past 0300. The rain was torrential and the lightning spectacular. I left at 0830 with the temperature at 27℃. Amazingly, there was little sign of the night’s rain. It was a short ride to Darwin through what was clearly tropical vegetation. 60 to 70 kms out from Darwin the road became noticeably busier with more stretches of dual carriageway. I was to learn that events of WWII are very much remembered and celebrated. The north of Australia was very much involved in the conflict with Japan and was attacked on a number of occasions from the air. It was used as a staging area for people fleeing from what was then the Dutch East Indies. There were many allied troops stationed over a large part of the Northern Territory and Western Australia and the location of many connected landmarks is signposted along with numerous memorials of one type or another. There were a number of airstrips sited along roads and many of these are maintained to this day.
I was heading to a suburb where I knew there were stores (Anaconda and BCF) where I could buy new sandals and a water container. My 4 litre water bladder which has been on the bike for in excess of 25,000 kms had sprung a leak. I phoned the accommodation to confirm I could check in early and I arrived just after noon, dripping - the heat wave accompanied by very high humidity. I unloaded the bike in the underground car park (Hurrah), showered and walked into the city centre to have a look around and to do a supermarket shop as I planned to remain in Darwin for several days. The accommodation contained a washing machine and tumble dryer so laundry was done and I ate in an adjacent Nepalese restaurant. I was staying in the Alatai Holiday Apartment complex which was very luxurious compared to my normal standard and very good value. The only downside was that it was a good 15 minutes or more walk into town.
120 kms travelled.
Saturday 5 November
Darwin
I had a lie in until 0900. I booked Tuesday’s tour to Kakadu National Park and walked into town to the information bureau to enquire about boat trips. I decided on a sunset cruise with dinner and booked online. I must have suffered finger trouble because the confirmatory email was for a booking the following Saturday! I telephoned and had no trouble in amending the booking to the correct day. I walked around the wharf area and surrounds discovering that Darwin is a very pleasant city, not the wild west I was anticipating.
However, there was a large number of indigenous folk resting, and begging, in many places. I returned to my accommodation at 1400, absolutely saturated. I walked back to the wharf (¾ hour) to board the Spirit of Darwin for the sunset cruise. As it was towards the end of the tourist season (the Dry) the boat was only half full and the crew were very attentive. Following a complimentary drink on boarding there was a cash bar, canapes were served and then a generous buffet dinner. This was all accompanied by an interesting but not overly intrusive commentary as we cruised the coast off Darwin. Fortunately, the sky was clear and we enjoyed a glorious sunset.
Finally, the boat stopped close to the wharf below restaurants and bars where we were given bread to throw overboard to feed the fish. And what a display! Large grey mullet (like small sharks), batfish, moonfish (large and spectacular) among others thrashing about close to the surface. A very entertaining three hours and good value for money. I walked back to my accommodation feeling a twinge in my left Achilles tendon (almost ten miles walked today).
Sunday 6 November
Darwin
Lazy day. The aforementioned Achilles tendon was sore so I decided on a rest day. I went to the servo opposite which was also a Coles Express and bought a microwave dinner and odds and ends. I stripped the bike in preparation for the next day’s service. I watched a recording of the Australia v France rugby match and worked on the blog.
Monday 7 November
Darwin
I dropped the bike off at 0800 at 33℃. The mechanic and owner of the RE/Indian dealership, Rick, was pretty uncommunicative. He works on his own having sacked his last guy because “he was useless and didn’t want to work”. I caught the (free) bus back for the 5 kms journey back to my digs. I got chatting to a black guy at the bus stop, and on the bus, who had just dropped off his bike for its first service at a nearby Honda dealership. He was an accountant with a young family and this was his first bike. He explained that the buses were free in Darwin until Chtristmas to encourage use of public transport. There are large distances between bus stops and buses are not that frequent so I suspect it is a losing battle, particularly as travelling by your own car provides door to door air conditioning. I returned by the same method at 1145. I had asked Rick to check the stem bearings after my experience in Cooktown and after some discussion during which he said they were shot he said he could replace them the next day. I returned, again by bus, to town and paid ($80) for an additional night in the Alatai. On this second bus trip back to town I got chatting to 6 indigenous guys at the bus stop. They were all drunk, one had to be supported by two chums, and were drinking some amber coloured liquid from unlabelled pop bottles. They were pretty raucous on the bus and greeted noisily others boarding the bus. I walked to the botanical gardens in the afternoon and decided to take what I thought was a short cut back, but it wasn’t! I stopped for a cold beer in the Buff Club - there are many different social clubs in Australia most of which have restaurants/bistros and various other facilities as well as reasonably priced drinks. One generally has to obtain temporary membership which is a simple procedure. I decided that I needed a curry for dinner so I walked to an Indian restaurant I had discovered online, but it was closed. I ended up with a takeaway Chinese meal.
Tuesday 8 November
Darwin
Out at 0550 to walk to the coach pick up point for the Kakadu day tour. There then followed a 3½ hours coach trip with interesting commentary from the driver/guide. We visited Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) rock art galleries then the Kunwarddewardde Lookout to see the Kakadu escarpment and Burrungkuy Rock. The rock art was amazing and the guide explained each element and their backstory. In aboriginal culture it is forbidden to interfere with a painting but it is permissible to overpaint with a fresh one. In this case, in 2006 an elder was authorised to touch up the paintings, to good effect. There was one area where it is forbidden to photograph at risk of releasing bad spirits!
The rock formations and views were spectacular.
On to the Cooinda Lodge for a good buffet lunch (although they ran out of the fresh fruit salad dessert) followed by the Yellow Water Cruise to spot salt water crocodiles and birds. This element, which lasted over two hours, was good with a knowledgeable and entertaining coxswain/guide. Apparently, last year's “Wet” produced far less rain than normal so water levels were low which limited the boat’s manoeuvrability. It was very hot so the crocodiles were remaining submerged to keep cool. We did see a few crocodiles, mostly their head and back just before they dived. There were many birds and we were fortunate to see an aggressive aerial display by two sea eagles.
Wednesday 9 November
Darwin
Bus back to collect the bike. I asked if the valve clearances had been OK during the service. Rick replied “You didn’t ask me to check them.”!!!! Should be part of the Himalayan service schedule. I paid and went to a servo to fill the tank having left it virtually empty to facilitate tank removal for valve clearance check. As I finished filling the tank I noticed petrol running down the frame and onto the ground. I returned to the bike shop where it was discovered that the ‘O’ ring between the tank and the fuel pump was leaking. Rick had a spare in stock and agreed to fit it there and then. I have to be honest and say that during the previous few days of filling the tank I had smelled petrol but couldn’t find any sign of leakage. I reasoned that it must have been because the temperature was so high that I could smell the vapour. I guess that once a little fuel had been used the pressure on the ‘O’ ring was reduced and the seepage stopped. After returning to the apartment I walked into town before later mounting the panniers, spare fuel tank, water container etc before enjoying a microwave dinner.
Thursday 10 November
Darwin - Katherine
I left at 0900 at a temperature of 31℃. I headed south, again on the Stuart Highway, before turning off to investigate the Litchfield National Park. I visited the Magnetic Termite Mounds. These termites build their narrow mound on floodplains in a north/south orientation. Apparently this affords the mound shade from the sun on each side no matter the time of day.
This contrasts with the Cathedral Termite Mounds which are built on dry ground and which have chambers underground and which have numerous fissures to provide shade and shelter.
I went on to the Buley Rockhole which is free of crocodiles and is very popular with bathers.
2
A few kilometres further on I walked to the Florence Falls which were surrounded by trees populated by many fruit bats (flying foxes).
467 kms travelled.
Friday 11 November
Katherine - Timber Creek
A leisurely start to the day as my plan was to ride a short distance. I left at 0930 at 32℃. After fairly ordinary surroundings the landscape changed to include hills and escarpments, nice bends in the road and lovely scenery.
I passed through the Junjarra/Gregory National Park and stopped at the Victoria River Roadhouse. The forecast was for rain and thunderstorms and although the sky on departure from Katherine was clear cloud soon began to build. I saw rain falling in the distance so I stopped to wait for it to pass. I set off but soon turned around as it began to rain and I stopped to don my waterproof jacket before the rain reached me. The sky behind me was very dark and I could see lightning and hear thunder. I donned full waterproof gear before leaving the roadhouse, but there was no further rain! I rented a small cabin at Timber Creek in view of the weather. An hour after my arrival there was a terrific thunderstorm with torrential rain. I enjoyed a great rump steak that night.
287 kms travelled.
