Wednesday 5 October
Dubbo
As expected, it rained in Dubbo all day. Following a leisurely start I walked to the Dubbo Cultural Centre where I enjoyed a scrumptious egg and bacon roll and coffee before ambling around the museum. Like most of these regional museums there were interesting exhibits featuring life in days gone by. There was a cabinet devoted to a family by the name of Cullen who came from Sligo, Ireland early in the 19th century, particularly interesting as part of my extended family are Cullens from Sligo.
I also visited the adjacent art gallery and experienced my first view of virtual reality. Most odd art but an interesting experience. In the afternoon I visited the historic Dubbo Gaol where the most captivating (pun intended) exhibits concerned the people incarcerated, and in some cases executed, there. I attended a very entertaining presentation about escape attempts, only one of which was successful. The dismal weather confirmed my decision to stay in Dubbo.
Thursday 6 October
Dubbo - Karuah
I left at 0930 with a temperature of 17℃ and overcast skies but no rain. I had decided to head east to avoid forecast rain and crossed the Great Dividing Range (at a height of 697m) into the Hunter Valley where the temperature dropped. I stopped in Marriwa for lunch. I had started the day in full waterproofs and at 1500 I stopped just north of Newcastle to remove them as it was becoming warmer as I approached the coast. From there I rode some really good back roads arriving at Karuah at 1630. I had dinner in the local RSL (Returned and Services League of Australia), a surprisingly large club given its location, of grilled barramundi. I am granted honorary membership because of my Naval service and the clubs are particularly popular in NSW where you can find good beer and food at reasonable prices.
400kms travelled.
Friday 7 October
Karuah - Billbrook
I was undecided on today’s route. The problem with travelling up the east coast is that one is obliged to follow the Pacific Highway, diving off to visit towns/villages/beaches etc, e.g. Wallingat National Park and the coast road via Forster. I had decided to seek accommodation again and ended up in a settlement 45kms west of Kempsey called Billbrook. The road there was brilliant with lots of turns and hills and although the road surface was pretty ropey in places I had a blast arriving at just after 1600, I was met by the hostess who looked as though she could give Mike Tyson a run for his money but she turned out to be a really nice lady who let two rooms in what was an old homestead. The house was immaculate and very comfortable and I had full run of the kitchen etc. Fortunately, although a very small hamlet there was a hotel/pub/bistro/general store opposite and they were cooking that night. The bed was super comfortable and the accommodation first class. The man of the house was a lorry driver and because he didn’t arrive home until late in the evening I was unable to speak to him until the following morning when he was able to answer some pertinent questions concerning road etiquette and trucks.
344kms travelled.
Billbrook - Lismore
It had rained heavily overnight and the weather forecast was noncommittal. I decided to head for Lismore and planned an inland route to avoid the Pacific Highway. Unfortunately the road to Armidale was closed due to landslips so I took the fabulous road back to Kempsey which committed me to long stretches on the dual carriageway highway. I did make several diversions including stretches of the old Pacific Highway and had lunch in Macksville. Later in the day I began riding through extensive fields of sugar cane which was accompanied by a pleasant aroma, I guess from the plants. I spoke to James on Facetime enquiring after Alice, did some laundry at the motel and ate an enormous chinese meal (menu choices differ from the UK!)
387kms travelled.
Sunday 9 October
Lismore - Dalby
Again heavy rain overnight in Lismore. Fortunately the motel receptionist had allowed me to park the bike in the adjacent restaurant which was closed for renovation. The weather forecast suggested rain on the coast but dry inland so I decided to head back to my original planned inland route. I left at 1000, 24℃ and very humid. I headed inland towards Warwick and as I approached the hills of the Great Dividing Range it began to rain. I donned waterproofs and rode on. Soon afterwards I noticed that my large Ortlieb bag containing my camping gear had shifted. As I was securing it, having stopped at the side of the road, my waterproof trousers touched the exhaust pipe and I now have a melted hole in one leg! The road was twisty and a joy to ride, despite the rain. I rode through the Southern Downs, the Darling Downs and the Northern Downs. I passed through a small town called Killarney, famous for a waterfall, I stopped for coffee and a ham/cheese croissant in a small village and again for coffee in Warwick. (I discovered later in the week that Warwick was hosting a well known annual weekend of classic motorcycle racing!) The temperature gradually fell despite blue skies and stabilised at 21/22℃. I saw my first (live) kangaroo today: it was sitting at the edge of the road and moved only when I was quite close to it, fortunately away from me. The ground is saturated meaning camping would be a problem so I booked a motel room in Dalby. I dined on bangers and mash in a pub.
351kms travelled.
Monday 10 October
Dalby - Roma
I left the motel at 0915 having dropped the bike as I boarded it - I hadn’t noticed the slope and the bike fell away from the sidestand. Fortunately the motel maintenance guy was there and he helped me lift it saving me the task of unloading the baggage. I continued travelling north on the inland route. The temperature stood at 22℃ for most of the day and it remained overcast. The ride was pretty unremarkable, extensive barley fields and flat landscape and I stopped in Chinchilla for breakfast. I reached the Western Downs which relieved the boredom of the flat farmland. I crossed into Outback Queensland from New South Wales evidenced by the increase in roadkill, particularly kangaroos. Queensland is in a different time zone to New South Wales and the time on my satnav changed almost instantly I passed the Queensland sign. I reached Roma where the temperature had risen to 26℃. Rain was forecast and with the saturated ground I again opted for a motel room. The relief receptionist was a motorcyclist and he directed me to park the bike in a secure spot. I had arrived early so I went walkabout and stopped for an early beer. As it was cattle country I had a steak for dinner. It rained very heavily overnight.
272kms travelled.
Roma - Emerald
I left Roma at 0930 under cloudy skies. Following a short stretch of flat terrain I again encountered the Great Dividing Range with more hills and bends. Agriculture changed from arable to cattle and sheep. I stopped at a heritage site, Gunnewin, which celebrated the soldiers who on return from WWI were granted plots of land to farm. Many were unable to make a living and gave up their plots whilst others took on the abandoned plots and ended up with substantial land holdings and became both successful and wealthy as a result. I stopped in Injune (a Laycock stronghold discovered on previous trips) and had an interesting conversation with a whacky woman whose stepfather was a Laycock. I continued transiting the gorgeous Carnarvon National Park, passing the road to Carnarvon Gorge where Daphne and I had camped and seen the marvellous aboriginal art a number of years ago. As I passed through Springsure I saw the impressive Minerva Mountains, all part of the Central Highlands. I reached Emerald at 1640 in sunshine and a temperature of 27℃ and again stayed in a motel. A good day's ride.
399kms travelled.
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