Ever Northward

 Thursday 20 October

Wongaling Beach

Had a lie in until 0820.  I poured hot water into a mug to make tea only to discover water dripping from a crack in the bottom.  Not a good start to the day.  Rain is forecast for later in the day.  After completing domestic chores I went for a long (11/4 hours) walk along the beach to Mission Beach. 

I stopped at a beachside bar for a beer and was persuaded to stay for lunch.  I ate red emperor, a reef fish, which was simply delicious.  On my way back it began to rain accompanied by thunder.  I reached Woolworths, the local supermarket, only slightly wet and had a coffee whilst waiting for the rain to stop.  On return to the site of course my washing was still wet!  I spent the remainder of the day reading and chatting to the occupants of adjacent units.  It continued to rain heavily and was forecast to be the same for the next few days.  Consequently I booked accommodation in Cairns.  When will I have clear days?

Friday 21 October

Wongaling Beach - Cairns

Following heavy rain throughout the night, and thunderstorms forecast for Cairns, the rain had stopped and it looked brighter when I awoke.  I decided not to wear waterproofs.  I left at 0830 and rode through some nice twisties in rainforest.  Rain looked imminent after half an hour and I stopped under a truck inspection shelter to don waterproofs.  As I was doing so the heavens opened.  I was following the Bruce Highway and as I approached Innisfail I saw a sign for the Canecutters Way Tourist Route.  I had stacks of time to spare so I turned off and followed it.  I noticed that I was heading south rather than expected north but reasoned that it would soon change.  But it didn’t and I found myself back on the Bruce Highway near Silkwood, a spot I had passed an hour earlier!  No matter.  I stopped for refreshment at Mourilyan beside the Sugar Museum but because of the rain and my apparel I decided not to visit but to continue travelling.  I reached Cairns just after 1300, more wet inside than out as it had stopped raining by then.  Ten minutes later it began to rain again.  It brightened a little later and I walked to a nearby mall to have new nose pads fitted to my glasses at a Specsavers shop and to stock up on provisions and beer as I was staying for the weekend.  I ate a tasty goat curry at a very disorganised Indian restaurant which appeared to be run by east Europeans.

Another example of Australian political correctness!

207 kms travelled.

Saturday 22 October

Cairns

An awful night’s sleep: the tv in the room next door appeared to be on full volume until 0230.  Unable to speak to the occupant I complained to the owner this morning and all was silent thereafter.  I walked to the Esplanade tourist office to book a trip on the Kuranda scenic railway and Skyrail.  It hadn’t yet opened so I had breakfast at an adjacent cafe.

I had a conversation with a bloke who apparently had lost his home, his money and savings to scammers but he was still in contact with the girl he had met online which led to the scam!!!!!  The tourist office was a waste of time and I was merely given the telephone number of the rail booking office.  I rang but it became far too complicated so I went to a travel agent and made the booking.  The remainder of the day was spent meandering along the Esplanade and harbour, shopping and finishing off with a couple of refreshing beers.  I returned to the Esplanade in the evening and enjoyed a sumptuous burger whilst being entertained by two aboriginal women fighting on the Esplanade opposite.  The tide was high and it was interesting walking back along the shoreline with groups (a flock?) of pelicans floating very close to the boardwalk.

Sunday 23 October

Cairns

Tourist Day.  I was picked up at 0845 in an air conditioned coach to be taken to Freshwater to catch the 0945 train.  The Kuranda Scenic Railway is a tourist railway service that operates along the heritage-listed Cairns-to-Kuranda railway line rising from sea level to 327 metres.  Constructed in 1891 to service the extensive gold mining industry, the line runs from Cairns over the Great Dividing Range into the stunning Barron Gorge and to the town of Kuranda on the Atherton Tableland. 

The trip was accompanied by a commentary of incredible stories of its construction in the late 19th century.  One story that resonated told of a rockfall that prevented supplies being transported to the workers on one section.  Fearing being deprived of beer they walked down the track and rolled barrels of beer, the dimensions of which allowed them to be rolled on the track!  

It truly is scenic with spectacular views. 

.... although not everybody appreciated the view from the train

On disembarking at Kuranda I was surprised at its size.  Clearly a tourist destination there were numerous shops and eateries.  I was there for just over 4 hours and although there were additional attractions such as a butterfly farm and a small zoo with local animals, I chose to wander.  I ate a locally made pie sitting in the park where I had a conversation with an old fellow who was visiting from a cruise ship.  I had lunch of a peppered calamari salad, watched by a large lizard,

wandered around the shops and narrow lanes of a hippy market section (there was a hippy community in Kuranda before it was developed as a mainstream tourist destination).

Clearly many tourists come from the Middle and Far East!

  I ended up in the local hotel drinking a cold beer listening to the Ukelele Bad Guys, a surprisingly versatile group of middle aged musicians/singers performing a wide range of music.  I then boarded Skyrail, cableway gondolas seating 6 people.  Skyrail Rainforest Cableway is a 7.5-kilometre (4.7 mi) scenic tourist cableway running above the Barron Gorge National Park, in the Wet Tropics of Queensland’s World Heritage Area.  It journeys through the Wet Tropics Rainforest, home to the world's oldest tropical rainforest, older than the Amazon Rainforest. It was the longest gondola cableway in the world when it was completed in 1995. 

I shared a gondola with an ICT nurse from Adelaide and two young lads from Saudi Arabia. They were good company and we enjoyed stimulating conversation for the 40’ minutes ride.

Souvenir photo purchased by Saudi lads who kindly shared link.

A coach transported me back to Cairns where I spent a quiet evening in.

Monday 24 October

Cairns - Cape Tribulation

I left Cairns at 0845 at 31℃.  My intention was to merely visit Cape Tribulation on the way to Cooktown.  The road from Smithfield, just north of Cairns, to Port Douglas was good with many bends and gentle ups and downs often flanking the seashore.

I meandered around Port Douglas on the bike revisiting old sites (The Courthouse pub, Tin Shed (grouper feeding bar), Mantra (accommodation in 2009)).  I stopped for coffee and had an interesting conversation with a couple from Victoria, the husband had worked as an aerospace engineer, who lived on a remote hilltop plot which was totally self sufficient in terms of utilities and which entailed a weekly journey to their nearest town to shop, collect their mail and dispose of what little garbage they had accumulated.  The road to the Daintree Ferry was fine but largely flat, again through fields of sugar cane.  Once across the river ($17 return) the road through the Daintree National Park was fantastic - fairly narrow with numerous tight bends and inclines all the while flanked by impenetrable rainforest and often under a tree canopy. 

I reached Cape Tribulation at around 1200.  I walked to the beach, got a good vibe, and decided to camp for the night.  My first choice of site, Safari Lodge, told me they had no grass pitches but PK’s opposite did.  PK’s reception was unmanned and whilst waiting I discovered that tent pitches were $30 whilst a budget air conditioned cabin was $70.  I weakened, again, and went for the cabin.  After settling in I went for yet another beach walk starting off on a boardwalk through a mangrove swamp. 

I had a snooze, showered and walked a short distance to the Whet restaurant where I enjoyed a tiger prawn linguine and a couple of beers.  This was real tropical dining with an open terrace under a palm thatch roof with fans and oil lamps burning.

(Cape Tribulation is one of the iconic places in Australia's European history. It was here that Captain James Cook, who had successfully navigated H.M. Barque Endeavour through the treacherous waters of the Great Barrier Reef, was finally beaten by the reef.)

154 kms travelled.

Tuesday 25 October

Cape Tribulation - Cooktown

I had pondered over travelling the unsealed Bloomfield Track to Cooktown.  It had quite a reputation consisting of steep hills and several river/creek crossings.  I decided to take the long way around (a day rather than several hours) as my bike is very heavily laden with all my camping gear, tools and personal belongings and would be difficult to handle over rough terrain.  I left at 0845 at 28℃.  The overnight temperature in the rainforest was very pleasant.  The sun was scorching during the day but I ended up sleeping without air conditioning or the ceiling fan.  I repeated the great ride back to the Daintree Ferry and then most of the way to Mossman where I stopped for breakfast.  As I was returning to the bike I was approached by a fellow ‘Himmy’ owner.  In his forties and a resident of Mossman he had ridden dirt bikes for years but loved his Himalayan, so much so that he had persuaded two mates to buy one.  He had ridden his Himalayan on the Bloomfield Track several times unladen of course) and reckoned I should have tried it.  Too late!  I crossed the ‘Range again on a very good road surface and through hairpins and great sweeping bends.

 

I joined the Mulligan Highway and the road crossing the Tablelands was undulating if not mountainous.  I stopped at the Palmer River Roadhouse to refuel - the only other servo in 150 kms was closed.  I crossed the Buyerstown Range and Lakeland Downs, all part of the Cape York Peninsula before passing the Black Mountain on the approach to Cooktown.

The temperature crossing the Tablelands had risen to 39℃ so I decided it was too hot to camp and on arrival in Cooktown I phoned to book a cabin with air conditioning in the Peninsula Caravan Park. 

On leaving Cape Tribulation I felt that the headstock bearings on the bike felt a little loose, i.e. a thumping noise on going over bumps.  I do not have the correct tools to make the necessary adjustment and there was no motorcycle workshop in Cooktown.  I phoned a couple of general engineering companies to seek assistance but with no luck.  There were several tradesmen staying in adjacent cabins and I was able to borrow a large adjustable spanner and long screwdriver to tackle the job.  Having removed the handlebar with great difficulty, fearful of shearing a bolt because the locking compound used on them at manufacture was like cement, I was able to remove the large cap nut and use the long screwdriver as a drift to move the adjusting ring.  Either by luck or judgement, dripping with sweat and assisted by a couple of cold ciders, the adjustment has worked and the steering has been fine since.  I walked a lengthy distance to the RSL where I enjoyed a dinner of creamy chilli prawns and had an interesting chat with a rep of an agricultural chemical company and his inebriated mate.

306 kms travelled.

Wednesday 26 October

Cooktown

Sightseeing Day.  I rode to three spots that had been recommended by several people, Archer Point, Trevathlan Falls and the Lion’s Den Hotel.  The turnoff to Archer Point was 12 kms south of Cooktown on the highway onto a gravel road.  Immediately I felt the benefit of the tyres fitted in Townsville.  On the Michelin Anakee IIIs the bike would have been squirming under me.  On the Mitas E07s it felt stable and planted.  Another motorcyclist passed me going in the opposite direction and he was riding at quite a lick.  Not long afterwards several small groups followed, all going fast in clouds of dust, one not making a corner and ending up in the scrub, and another almost taking me out.  They all appeared to be kitted out the same and their bikes were very similar.  I guess they might have been part of an organised tour.  There is an unmanned lighthouse at the top of Archer Point and I rode up to it.  The track was steep, rutted and loose and when I reached the top I suddenly realised that descending might be a problem.  After taking photos I gave myself a good talking to and made a careful, controlled descent.  Phew!

I stopped and explored a small palm fringed beach.  I felt as though I was the only person on the planet. 

Returning to the highway I travelled a little further to the turnoff to Trevathlan Falls.  Gravel road again but this one in a slightly poorer condition.  Again, the tyres boosted my confidence and I rode at a comfortable 40mph, standing often to make the corrugations less uncomfortable.  As I arrived at the small parking area close to the falls a family of 5, Dad, Mum and 3 young daughters were making preparations to swim in the falls.  They were touring Australia for almost a year from their home in Victoria and their daughters’ schools had given their approval.  “It will do their education good.  Just make sure they keep up with their reading.”  The falls were accessed via a very narrow, sloping path and were delightful.  There were 4 other people swimming.  Although I had packed my trunks on the bike I didn't swim. 

I returned to the highway and took the sealed turnoff to the Lion’s Den Hotel (famous among travellers in these parts) where I had lunch.

Back to Cooktown to catch up on some personal admin.  136 kms travelled today, 76 of them on gravel.  A lot easier too without all my luggage/camping gear loaded.

Coastwise

Wednesday 12 October

Emerald - Mackay

A good start to the day - egg, bacon and toast delivered to the door at 0730!  An earlier departure today; 0830, a temperature of 24℃ and bright blue sky with not a cloud to be seen.  The countryside was interesting crossing the Peak Range.  I rode around a striking hill in the shape of a shark’s tooth which had been named “Wolfgang” (The explorer Ludwig Leichhardt first discovered Wolfgang Peak in 1845 and named the individual peaks in the national park after members of his party or sponsors.)

I then entered mining country and saw some enormous opencast sites.  If the hills produced by the waste was anything to go by the holes were massive.  They are well protected and it is impossible to get close enough to take decent photographs. 

I was speaking to a mine worker a few days later and he told me that some of the mines are in excess of 100 kilometres in length.  I had frequent stops today as my bottom was a little sore.  I have a Royal Enfield ‘comfort’ seat, an Airhawk inflatable pad and a sheepskin cover - it should be armchair comfortable!  Finally the weather and ground were conducive to campng and I arrived at a site recommended by the tourist information office.  It was ostensibly a small caravan park with over half the occupants long term residents but for $25 (about £13) I was allocated a small patch of grass at the rear entrance under a street light.  Mine was the only tent on site and it suited me.

397kms travelled.

Thursday 13 October

Mackay - Airlie Beach

I left Mackay at 0815 having taken some time to break camp and packup thanks to the woman from the adjacent caravan and an elederly Dutch man who engaged me in lengthy conversation.  A short while after leaving Mackay I spotted the Leap Hotel with a figurine of a black guy outside which I remembered from our trip in 2009.  I stopped at a roadside cafe which was inundated with press - a local politician had been hosting a breakfast there.  The majority of guests appeared to be country folk juding by their jeans, checked shirts etc.  My intention was to drop into Airlie Beach for old times sake but on arrival I decided to stay for a couple of nights in the XBase campsite.  It was populated largely by youngsters/backpackers the majority of whom were housed in dormitories.  Vehicles were not permitted to park in the tent camping area so as I explained that I needed to have the bike adjacent to my tent I was allowed to pitch it in a fairly secluded area among several camper vans and trailer tents.

  The site is in a very convenient central location and I went for a long walk in the afternoon.

  The best part of the day, though, was receiving news of the safe arrival of granddaughter Maisie, daughter of James and Alice.  It was so good to hear that her second name is Sophie in memory of the Ben’s first daughter who died of leukemia soon after birth some years ago.  Clearly had to go and wet the baby’s head.

151kms travelled.

Friday 14 October

Airlie Beach

I discovered that most of Airlie Beach had been without wifi internet connection for several days.  Apparently businesses were spending a fortune having to work using 4G.  I was told that McDonalds did have connectivity so went there for breakfast. Although there was some signal it was very patchy.  (The lamp post on the pavement is, I believe, the one that my daughter walked into in 2009 when deep in conversation with us.)

When did I become so obsessed with having access to the internet????  Being surrounded by electronic devices which all need charging I decided that I should carry a powerbank.  I did leave a small one in Wagga!  It’s camping without electrical hookup that persuaded me of the need.  I caught a bus to the nearest shopping centre at Cannondale, 3 or 4 kms along the coast.  Having purchased one I noticed a Government Services Centre so popped in to enquire about my Medicare card (proves entitlement to free health care, a reciprocal arragement with the UK) which I had applied for online and had received acknowledgement on 14 September.  A very helpful youg lady got on my case.  It appears that Canberra had written to me at the Wagga address on 23 September (not received) asking for a copy of my European Health Card.  Seems that particular Civil Servant was unaware that the UK is no longer part of the EU!  Anyway, young Theresa got it sorted and then explained how to register etc on the Medicare app which I did using the centre’s internet access.  I asked the shopkeeper from whom I purchased the powerbank if there was a waterside walk back to Airlie Beach and he gave me directions which I followed.  Wrong!  There is no such walk.  But I did discover a lovely little restaurant on the beach which served a lovely Thai salad.

I started walking back along the road and as I reached the bottom of a steep hill I noticed a young lad taking a left turn in front of me.  I struggled down the other side of the hill on the inside of the Armco and as I reached the bottom I spotted said young man.  I called out to him and he said that I could get to Airlie Beach from there by shoreside footpath.  He was walking to work in Airlie Beach because his motorcycle had broken down.  As I started off I noticed that he had taken to the road.  I shouted to him and he explained that it was quicker than the footpath from there! 

I spent some time watching sailing activity in the bay.  In the evening it was back to Magnums for a couple of beers and then had a poor curry.  Ate too much today!

Saturday 15 October

Airlie Beach - Townsville

I was up at 0600 to break camp before it became too hot.  I got chatting to the bloke at the next pitch who I noticed was in a vehicle with what looked like some form of registration number, large and very prominant, on its side.  I had noticed many such notated vehicles particularly since leaving Emerald.  It appears that they are connected to the mining industry and the purpose is to make them easy to identify and to communicate with by radio in the vast open cast mining environment.  He had borrowed the vehicle to tow his boat for a long weekend of fishing.  I eventually got underway at 0800ish and it was soon 32C.  The road was very pleasant cutting through sugar cane fields heading towards Bowan, made famous by the film ‘Australia’.  There used to be a ‘BOWAN’ sign on the hillside apeing that of Hollywood but that is no longer in evidence. I took a selfie in front of the Big Mango and had breakfast in the Bowen sailing club with a good view of the harbour.  (I binned the free beanie hat after seeing this selfie - looking inside I saw it was a child's size!)

I continued towards Townsville with frequent stops to hydrate.  At one rest area I was approached by a lady who offered me a coffee.  I declined but I got into conversation with her and her husband, Rhyl and Barry Graham, who were on their way back to Townsville in their campervan having attended a classic motorcycle race weekend in  Warwick.  I had passed through there at the time of the meeting but had seen no sign of it: had I done so I would have stopped over.   Apparently they had run a motorcycle dealership in Townsville for a number of years.  I explained that I had made arrangements with a motorcycle tyre shop in Townsville, Lockes, to fit more aggressive tyres.  Barry knew the owner, Lockie, well and said he was the best in town.  He said he would meet me after fitting the following Monday for a tour of the area.  I reached my booked accommodation at 1500 and noticed that the emailed self check in information omitted the number of my room although the door entry code was provided.  I messaged the owner and as I had the main door code I unloaded the bike and carried my kit into the reception area.  I met the owner, Steve, in the corridor and all was resolved including secure parking for the bike.  There was a supermarket next door so I bought some supplies for my weekend stay and took advantage of the strong internet connection to catch up with the family on FaceTime.  Townsville has a very attractive prominade, The Strand, and I had an early evening stroll before a beer in Molly Malone’s.

295kms travelled.

Sunday 16 October

Townsville

I started the day with laundry and then went to the weekly market in Flinders Street, the town’s main street which is closed for the event.  The market sells fruit and vegetables, has food stalls and numerous craft and handicraft stalls.  Really, there’s not a lot of point looking as when motorcycle touring there is limited carrying capacity. 

I visited the Museum of Tropical North Queensland where I spent two hours unhurriedly reading many descriptive plaques.  There is a most interesting exhibit featuring HMS PANDORA which sank in 1791 after hitting the Great Barrier Reef.  The ship had been despatched from Portsmouth in 1790 to capture the mutineers from the BOUNTY.  14 mutineers had been captured but not the ringleader, Fletcher Christian, who was on Pitcairn Isand, uncharted at that time.  I walked to the Magnetic Island ferry terminal in preparation for Tuesday’s trip and then along the Strand ending up in te Seaview Hotel sports bar where I watched the end of the Philip Island MotoGP and the boxing match between Devin Haney (USA) and George Kambosos (Australia) for the undisputed lighweight championship of the world.  Both were awesome contests and the cold beer went down well.  I dined in style with a microwave cottage pie and a tin of peas from the local supermarket.

Monday 17 October

Townsville

I arrived at Lockies at 0950 for the fitting of new tyres.  I had been told that he is not very punctual and he turned up just a few minutes later.  He appeared quite a character.  I guess he was in his late fifties/early sixties, he had a long grey beard, long grey hair tied in a pony tail, a head band, and he was wearing short sports shorts, a well used work shirt and flip flops.  He said it would take a while for him to get his workshop organised before fitting the new tyres, all this explained in the adjacent unit which was full of teddy bears and associated items which was apparently his wife’s business.  He directed me to an area where I could get coffee and I walked some way to get there.  Whilst there Barry phoned and arranged to collect me in his car.  He picked me up and we drove around town visiting the large motorcycle dealership where he had worked some time ago (all the staff greeted him warmly) and on to where his dealership/workshop used to be until the new owner burned it down in dubious circumstances.  We then visited the fellow, Bill, from whom he had bought the motorcycle business and was an old chum.  Bill had an enormous ‘shed’ which contained an large number of old bikes, both British and Japanese, and more lathes, drills, presses etc than you could shake a stick at.  I was regaled with old stories for three quarters of an hour and was thoroughly entertained.  Barry phoned Lockie who said that the tyre fitting was finished and asked to be paid in cash, not an unreasonable request particularly as the price for new tyres and tubes and fitting was far less than I was expecting.  (Perhaps having Barry along had an influence.)  He drove me to an ATM and then on to Lockie’s.  He recommended a ride to the top of Mount Stuart which overlooks Townsville and I thought it a good way to run in the new tyres.  The road to the top was narrow and twisty and most enjoyable to ride and it gave me the opportunity to get a feel for the way the new tyres handled. 

I had read about Armco modifications to take account of motorcyclists, i.e. to stop riders sliding under and into the stanchions.  The modifications were well in evidence on this popular biking road.

On return I had an early shower and on Kate and Paul’s recommendarion a most delicious steak dinner at the Seaview Hotel.

Tuesday 18 October

Townsville/Magnetic Island

I was up early to walk along the Strand to catch the 0845 ferry to Magnetic Island.  On arrival I hired a little scooter.  It was really odd riding such a light machine with such small wheels, very little power, both brakes on the handlebars and automatic transmission, but a very handy way to get about on such a small island.  I visited Picnic Bay (dead with nothing open), took a walk along the track to the WWII forts, and then on to Horseshoe Bay where I  enjoyed a beach walk and a lime soda. 

I stopped for lunch at the Arcadia Motel where we had stayed in 2009 and where we watched the cane toad racing.  After visiting the area where rock wallabies come down to be fed I returned the scooter and was back in Townsville by 1600 where I did more laundry and went for a goat curry.

Wednesday 19 October

Townsville - Mission Beach/Wongaling Beach

A slow start to the day as I had to reattach all my bags, tanks, luggage etc.  I had been advised to remove them as although I was parked in a secure location there was a problem with youth crime in Townsville.  I left at 0915 and stopped at an AMX (large Australian motorcycle accessories chain) because the zip on my tank bag was on the way out.  Although they had an identical bag in stock I opted for a slightly larger one, and it was cheaper.  I transferred everything from the old bag to the new and was on my way by 1030.  It was interesting riding with the Great Dividing Range close to one side amid vast sugar cane fields. 

As I was riding along a felt a bump as though I had hit a hidden pothole and sensed what felt like a tap on my helmet.  A car overtook me a short while later and the driver gesticulated to me.  We both stopped and he explained that he had seen something fall from the bike about a kilometere back.  I examined the bike and discovered that one of the straps securing the camping bag, and to which my Spot gps beacon was attached, was missing.  I turned around and after a short while I spotted the items lying in the middle of the road, fortunately in the gap between two solid white lines.  I was hoping that because of their position no vehicle had run over them, and the beacon in particular.  Miraculously the beacon was still working and the only damage was the absence of a little rubber cap covering the cable socket.  Most of the strap was wrapped around the back wheel between the hub and the brake disc.  Clearly, my neatly folded excess strapping had unravelled and become wrapped around the wheel and had parted.  I was very lucky to suffer no damage, or indeed the rear wheel locking. 

There were numerous geographical features signposted from the road and I ventured along a gravel road to the Jourama Falls, although I resisted the temptation to walk along a track to the falls themselves.  I relaxed by a creek and quiet pool instead.

  The hills form part of the Paluma Range and the Paluma Range National Park.  I noticed a number of signposts to Park falls etc which included camping and swimming.  I will investigate in future weather permitting.  I stopped at Cardwell, the scene of James’s last minute tan topup in 2009. 

I arrived at Dunk Island Caravan Park where I rented a comfortable small unit in view of the forecast rain.  I purchased supplies from a nearby supermarket as the site owner said the nearest place to eat was 7 kilometres away (totally wrong in the event) and that their kitchen closed at 1500.  I spent the late afternoon meandering along the beach - idylic.

262kms travelled